Bellmer La Poupée
Bellmer La Poupée (often shortened to La Poupée) is the ninth collection by British fashion designer Alexander McQueen, released for the Spring/Summer 1997 season of his eponymous fashion house. The collection used La Poupée, a 1934 series by Surrealist photographer Hans Bellmer, as a jumping-off point to deconstruct narrow standards of beauty considered acceptable by the fashion industry. The collection featured McQueen's signature sharp tailoring and dresses that ranged from commercial shift dresses to experimental high-collared designs, embellished with unusual zipper placement and graffiti. Shaun Leane and Dai Rees were recruited to produce experimental jewellery and accessories.
The runway show was staged on 27 September 1996 at the Royal Horticultural Hall at 80 Vincent Square in London. The stage was a shallow tank filled with water and lined with black plastic, inspired by the art installation 20:50 by Richard Wilson. Models wore translucent platform shoes so they appeared to be walking atop the water. Debra Shaw, a Black model, walked while shackled to a square metal frame, generating controversy over the perceived reference to slavery. Shaw has discussed her experience in the show as a positive one.
The clothing and runway show were well-received, and the collection is remembered as one of McQueen's best. Critical analysis has focused on Shaw's appearance, the effectiveness of the Bellmer inspiration, and McQueen's subversion of fashion industry norms. Items from La Poupée have been photographed for magazines, worn on the red carpet, and featured in museum exhibitions.